No real damage, no. There's a ding on the bottom edge of the case but you wouldn't notice it unless you were looking for it. And it still works perfectly fine. It was just the principal, y'know? It's like, I've been using the thing for two years, taking care of it, keeping it clean and all that, and of all the times for something to happen to it, it just HAD to be on the very same day he asked for it back. Seriously, what are the friggin' odds?!
Incidentally, I feel like you guys go straight to salting a little too readily. I think there should be a window of, I dunno, ten minutes or so to try some other tactic before automatically busting out the Morton's. Just sayin'.
To ground a bridge, you'll run a wire from under the bridge to your control cavity - the EMG instructions should show this. So you'll need a hole drilled from control cavity to the area under the bridge - when the bridge is mounted, the hole is covered and hidden. The bare (insulation stripped) end of the wire is pinned between the underside of the bridge and the wood of your bass - wire comes up out of the hole, then runs across bass top a bit so it is pinned (and contact made) beneath bridge. In my experience, this ground wire is usually a solid core wire instead of a braided core to get better contact.
Not even soldered, just pressed up tight against the bottom plate when the bridge is screwed down onto the body. The bare end of the ground wire is mashed between bridge and body - the pressure from the screwed-down bridge will be enough to make the wire indent the wood under the bridge. To do that, the bridge has to press down on the wire really hard - there will a good contact between bridge and wire without any soldering. Just make sure the wire is not in the way of any screws, and that it is under solid bridge (not spanning a hole/cut out in the bridge base).
