Routing around horns with a hand held router leaves very little contact surface for the router bass, this leads to wobbles and disaster, a router table does away with that. My mistakes haven't been too costly as I got the timber for free and I've managed to sort out the cock ups. One interesting point, when I've hit a wall I've thought, I'll just enter it into Talk Bass's build a bass for under 100 dollars, which I could easily do but I keep on keeping on. Remember, quitters never win and winners never quit
RIGHT, that's it God Dammit! The search for some nice maple veneer for the top has held this project up for too long, when I finally find some I can't justify shelling out fifty quid, I haven't spent that much on the progress so far, so it's gonna be black. Black body, black hardware, black neck, black nylon wound strings even! Only the cream binding to the top edge, the frets and the chrome knobs will stand out.
I'm working on a bungalow renovation for a customer at the moment, loft conversion, re-wire, boarding and plastering, new bathrooms and kitchen etc etc, bass on back burner
I assume this is the place to ask: If I wanted to buy a bass to de-fret what characteristics should that bass have? Like for example does fretboard wood matter much? The factory fretlesss I see all usually have the same. And other than that is there anything I should know?
