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Tech Guy

Marko1960
Posts: 1012
I've got a 1990 Squier Japan 62 Stratocaster, it's an early Silver Series without the ‘Silver Series’ logo but with the silver ‘Squier’ logo and Gotoh tuners. It's Surf Green with rosewood board, all of the plastics have ‘Aged’ nicely and the neck is a lovely warm honey glow with some ‘Flaming’ at the heel, I love it to bits and would never part with it, everyone should have at least one Strat
linkinpark232
Posts: 1341
Thanks Marko. And I agree, Strats are great
IamMark
Posts: 359
Woo hoo! I just got my neck in the mail today, along with my bridge. I'm ready to get going!

I have my socket measured and included in my design now, and I'm ready to transfer the paper design on to the ply template.

I'm going to buy a new router though. While my Craftsman has the power, it unfortunately only has a 1/4-inch bit chuck. And I need something a little larger for a 2-inch straight cut. I'm going to try and pick up the new router this week.

That being said. Marko, you said there was some sort of magic with drawing the template for the horns and acommodating the router housing? Care to share the magic now to calm my nerves?
IamMark
Posts: 359
Marko, instead of making my template smaller to acommodate the router housing, why don't I just use a router bit with a bearing against a template that's the actual size of the bass body?

What would be some of the problems I'd have doing it this way?
IamMark
Posts: 359
Never mind. I couldn't find a 2 inch straight cut bit with a bearing. So back to the original approach.
Marko1960
Posts: 1012
That's why, cos you can't get a 2" bit with a bearing lol. When you get the new router we will begin.
IamMark
Posts: 359
Got it. New Porter Cable 1.75 HP 27,000 rpm router with 1/2-inch collet.

Let's strap this Johnson on and bang this out!
Marko1960
Posts: 1012
Ok, lay the neck onto some of the 10mm ply and draw around the heel and make a mark either side of the nut, now measure the neck from the centre of the heel to the nut and transfer this measurement to the ply between the two marks. Now continue the lines from the heel to the two marks. Now find the centre line and Mark it the full length of the template and use a square on the centre line to draw the nut line, ( where the fingerboard ends and the nut begins ). Measure the width of the neck at the nut and check the template is the same at this point. Now cut out the template, it's best to cut close to the pencil marks but not touching them then wrap sandpaper round a block and sand up to the pencil lines. On your full size paper template Mark the centre line if you haven't already, put the neck template roughly where it should be and use a long straight edge to line up all the centre lines. Now place the bridge where it will go, ( about 1“ in from the end of the body ) and measure from the nut to the centre saddle, this should be 34”, move the neck template until this is correct, check the centre lines with the straight edge one more time and draw around the heel, the neck socket should follow the shape of the heel, make any adjustments to the drawing at this point and cut it out full size. Until the next thrilling instalment, have fun
IamMark
Posts: 359
Ok, Marko I have my paper templates done except I still don't know how the horns are going to work.

Here's a pic of my design with the neck centered and positioned for the socket.


And here's the body with the router base consideration.



I'll transfer to the 10mm ply this week and cut them this weekend.
Marko1960
Posts: 1012
Yeah I can see you're having problems with the router base one, throw it away and we'll go through it in detail at the weekend

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