0-9 A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Tech Guy

Marko1960
Posts: 1013
Ok, just to put your mind at rest, the router will cut around the ply template to give you perfectly square sides and the perfect shape, I'll tell you how in the next instalment
IamMark
Posts: 359
Quote:
There are a few things we need to know before we proceed, the length of the neck, the width at the nut and the width at the widest part of the heel. Is it a two octave neck, I.e. a 24 fret neck if it had frets, if so it will encroach further into the body than a 20 fret neck, we will be fitting the pick ups where a natural harmonic occurs, and the 24th fret position is a natural harmonic.

I'm still waiting on details from Warmoth, but I know the nut width is 1 7/8“. Not sure on the heel width or if it's a rounded neck base or squared yet.

It's a 22-fret length fingerboard on a 34” scale neck. I assume the fingerboard overlays the pic guard area a bit. I'll confirm when the spec diagram comes to me.
linkinpark232
Posts: 1345
So I might be getting a Behringer 212a pa speaker and I have a Behringer Xeynx 1002b mixer on layaway.can I use the powered mixer with the powered speaker? This is for vocals
Marko1960
Posts: 1013
PA isnt my area of expertise and if you heard me sing you'd know why, lol. When we used the rehearsal room there was a large mixer with powered speakers which we used, so yes, cant see why not
linkinpark232
Posts: 1345
Alright cool. Thanks! I just didn't know if it would damage the speaker
IamMark
Posts: 359
Marko, I don't know if this helps or not. Below is what the contact at Warmoth sent me.

It does not include the radius measurements for the rounded heel of the neck, so to cut the socket it looks like I need to wait to get the neck to actually build an accurate template.



My neck's head is different, and uses 14mm tuner holes.

But knowing the few measurements the image does have should be able to give us an idea of how much wood I need to leave for the width of the neck at that position on the body, right? I'll need to order my bridge first and know where it will be positioned on the body to get the 34" scale accurate, right?

Or should I just hold off on everything until I get the neck?
Marko1960
Posts: 1013
All we need at this point is the widest point of the heel, we don't need the shape just yet. The best thing to do is make a paper template using these measurements, don't forget the all important centre line, lay it over your full size body template to make the width of the socket at its highest point the same width as the heel at this point, look at your ‘off the peg’ bass to see what I'm talking about. If you drew the saddle position line on the paper template like I said, measure from the nut to this line and move the neck template until this is 34“. Bridge saddles have about a 1/2” movement so don't worry too much, and we have to set the intonation anyway, (more tricky on a fretless I might add). Finish off the paper body template and we can get on with cutting out the body. We'll use the one paper body template to keep things simple, don't trim it down to the router measurements yet. We will rough the body out with the jigsaw then using the ply template trim it down to the correct size and with perfectly square sides, once you get to this point you will get a very warm glow and feel very chuffed with yourself, believe me
Marko1960
Posts: 1013
Has your neck got the Fender style nut slot as in the photo? If so you measure from the saddle line to where the slot begins, if it's Gibson style, to where the fingerboard ends
IamMark
Posts: 359
I believe it's a Fender style neck.
IamMark
Posts: 359
Still waiting on the neck, Marko. As soon as it arrives I'll be ready to make some sawdust!

Any recommendations on pickups for a fretless? I was looking at SD J pickups.

Reply to this thread